Bouillabaisse with wild fennel

My mother wasn't a typical Martha Stewart-like homemaker (sorry, mom), but she did have a few tricks up her sleeve and one of them was bouillabaisse (another was making things magical, but we're not going there right now). I grew up in a fish-loving area of Northern California and, even with a limited budget, we were able to get good, super fresh, seafood regularly. Bouillabaisse was one of those dishes that we requested for birthdays, made for special occasions, and always got excited about because it meant "special". As time moved on, we grew up and had more disposable income, which allow for a crab leg here, better fish there, and even an infamous (gasp) lobster tail on one occasion. These variations taught me about the adaptability of bouillabaisse, which I take with me when I prepare it now, adding shellfish and fin fish as available. The version below also includes a dash of Pastis, the anise-flavored liquor favorite from the south of France. Serves 4-6, preferably with crusty french bread or toasted crostini to mop it up.

• 1 tablespoon olive oil

• A few wild fennel stocks and fronds (can substitute store-bought bulb/fronds)

• 1 medium yellow onion, chopped

• 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

• 2 cups fish stock

• 1.5 cups dry white wine

• 1 pound rock cod or other firm white fish

• 1 pound medium to large shrimp (I prefer with the peel)

• 14 ounce can diced tomatoes

• 1 pound fresh clams

• 2 tablespoon pastis, such as Ricard

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

• 1/2 teaspoon coarse ground black pepper

• Chopped parsley for garnish

Dice the fennel stalks to yield ~1/4-1/2 cups. Pluck fronds and set aside for later use.

Heat the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the fennel stalk, onion, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly tender, 3 to 4 minutes.

Add the fish stock and wine and bring to a boil. Add the rock cod, shrimp, and tomatoes and cook, covered, for 3 minutes.

Add the clams and cook, covered, until the cod and shrimp are cooked through and the clams have opened, 3 to 5 minutes.

Stir in the pastis, salt, and pepper. Sprinkle with the parsley and garnish with fennel fronds before serving.

Pasta Pomodoro with Tuna and Capers

“If you want to use fresh pasta in this recipe, simply switch the order of preparation to make the sauce first and cook the pasta while the sauce is simmering, as fresh pasta takes only 1-2 minutes to cook. ”

I'm not glutenphobic or a carb-hater by any means, but my go-to meals at home in my adult life have rarely been pasta. Bulgur, barley, buckwheat? Definitely, but pasta? Infrequent, if ever. This routine changed when my pasta maker-wielding partner moved in. Making pasta from scratch transforms it from a vehicle for sauce and other ingredients to a culinary star that shines all on its own. It has also allowed for experimentation with combinations of flours, such as spelt and semolina.

The inspiration for this recipe came from a dinner at Boot and Shoe Service, with adaptations including whole wheat spaghetti in place of classic, more tuna in the sauce, and red pepper flakes. The great thing about this pasta is it can be made almost entirely from ingredients you probably already have in your kitchen right now (or you can purchase at any time because they do not go bad) and it's incredibly quick, as a pasta meal should be. Serves 2. 

“For homemade pasta, use a 1:1 combination of spelt or whole wheat and semolina flours. ”

• 4 ounces whole-wheat spaghetti

• 1 tablespoon plus one teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

• 1 clove garlic, minced

• 1 oil-packed anchovy, chopped (optional)

• 1 14-ounce can diced tomatoes, drained (reserve water)

• 1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

• 1 can (5 to 6-ounces) good quality tuna, drained and flaked*

• 1-2 tablespoons California capers (or 2 teaspoons conventional capers)

• 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley

• Grated parmesan cheese and black pepper (optional) 

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Cook spaghetti to “al dente” (cooked, but still firm), for 9-11 minutes or according to package instructions. Drain and toss with 1 teaspoon olive oil. 

Heat remaining tablespoon of oil in a large skillet over medium. Add garlic and anchovies and cook until garlic is golden, stirring and breaking up anchovy with a wooden spoon, about 2 minutes.

Add tomatoes and crushed red pepper flakes and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes. Add reserved water from the tomato can as needed to prevent tomatoes from sticking to the skillet. 

Once tomato consistency is sauce-like and thick, stir in tuna and capers and cook for another 2 minutes. Divide sauce evenly over cooked pasta and top with parsley and optional parmesan and black pepper. Serve hot.

*To use oil-packed tuna, drain the tuna and use oil from can in place of olive oil. Also be sure to refer to the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch Guide for sustainable canned tuna choices.

Serve with: Roasted cauliflower-kale salad with citrus peel and nutmeg.