Linguini, Chickpeas, & Clams
Clams and bivalves in general can be intimidating but - spoiler alert - they’re actually very easy to cook! Don’t be scared, they won’t bite. Also, compared to other fish and especially to other animal foods, they’re a much more sustainable protein option and, bonus, they’re also a good source of omega-3s. Many are looking to so-called “blue foods” as a key way to improve global health. You can dress them up or down, but I find that simple is usually best (pairing with pasta never hurts) and they’re ready in minutes. Just make sure to buy them from a reputable source and only eat the clams that open when you cook them.
In this recipe, I added a cup of chickpeas that had been sautéed in olive oil/salt. I like adding chickpeas to give the dish more plant-forward fiber and variety, but you can stick with the classic version and leave them out.
Serves 4.
1-2lb fresh clams (we purchased ours from Flying Fish PDX - I believe they’re sustainably farmed)
1 cup cooked chickpeas (optional, see below for cooking recommendation)
1-3 tablespoons olive oil, separated
1 tablespoon butter (can do another tablespoon olive oil, but butter provides great flavor)
1-3 garlic cloves (depending on your love of garlic), chopped
1/2 cup of dry white wine
1-1.5lb fresh pasta, such as linguine (or 8-12oz dried)
Black pepper and sea salt
Fresh parsley, chopped
Freshly grated parmesan (optional)
To Prepare:
Heat a big pot of salted pasta water to a boil. Rinse clams, set aside.
If you’re adding chickpeas, now’s a good time to sauté them in ~1 tablespoon olive oil on medium-high for 5-7 minutes and sprinkle with salt. I like to use the pan that I’m going to cook the clams in then set the chickpeas to the side so I don’t dirty another pan. You can also roast them on a baking sheet - just toss with olive oil/salt and roast on 400 for 20-30 minutes.
In a large sauté pan big enough for all of your clams and some liquid, heat garlic in 1-2 tablespoons olive oil and butter (or just olive oil) on medium until softened, about 3 minutes.
Once garlic has softened, add clams, increase heat to medium-high, add wine, and toss clams until coated and sizzling.
Cook on medium-high until clams pop open. Do not eat any clams that do not open.
Once cook water is boiling, cook pasta (generally, 1 minute for fresh pasta or as directed for dry). DO NOT OVERCOOK because you’ll be adding this pasta to the hot clams before serving.
Once pasta has cooked, drain (save a few tablespoons of pasta water) and toss with olive oil in a large bowl.
Add pasta water to the clams. Serve over pasta and top with coarse ground black pepper, salt, parmesan, and parmesan (if desired).
Bouillabaisse with wild fennel
Classy and quick, the seafood stew of seafood stews.
My mother wasn't a typical Martha Stewart-like homemaker (sorry, mom), but she did have a few tricks up her sleeve and one of them was bouillabaisse (another was making things magical, but we're not going there right now). I grew up in a fish-loving area of Northern California and, even with a limited budget, we were able to get good, super fresh, seafood regularly. Bouillabaisse was one of those dishes that we requested for birthdays, made for special occasions, and always got excited about because it meant "special". As time moved on, we grew up and had more disposable income, which allow for a crab leg here, better fish there, and even an infamous (gasp) lobster tail on one occasion. These variations taught me about the adaptability of bouillabaisse, which I take with me when I prepare it now, adding shellfish and fin fish as available. The version below also includes a dash of Pastis, the anise-flavored liquor favorite from the south of France. Serves 4-6, preferably with crusty french bread or toasted crostini to mop it up.
1 tablespoon olive oil
A few wild fennel stocks and fronds (can substitute store-bought bulb/fronds)
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
2 cups fish stock
1.5 cups dry white wine
1 pound rock cod or other firm white fish
1 pound medium to large shrimp (I prefer with the peel)
14 ounce can diced tomatoes
1 pound fresh clams
2 tablespoon pastis, such as Ricard
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon coarse ground black pepper
Chopped parsley for garnish
Dice the fennel stalks to yield ~1/4-1/2 cups. Pluck fronds and set aside for later use.
Heat the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the fennel stalk, onion, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly tender, 3 to 4 minutes.
Add the fish stock and wine and bring to a boil. Add the rock cod, shrimp, and tomatoes and cook, covered, for 3 minutes.
Add the clams and cook, covered, until the cod and shrimp are cooked through and the clams have opened, 3 to 5 minutes.
Stir in the pastis, salt, and pepper. Sprinkle with the parsley and garnish with fennel fronds before serving.
Fresh Crab with Wood Sorrel-Cilantro Sauce
Ocean strawberries meet wild wood sorrel.
Crab season is one of my favorite seasons of the year. I love the fact that we still rely on fishermen and women to brave the seas in order to bring us these delicious crustaceans. Growing up in Humboldt County, my family lived near a crab stand that purported the clever phrase of "ocean strawberries" on their sign and I like to think of them as a cross between this elegant description and giant bugs.
In our house crab alone was special enough and accompaniments didn't go beyond melted butter and crusty bread. Although I still agree that crab is special enough, I wanted to take advantage of the wild wood sorrel prevalent in my neighborhood by making a vibrant and spicy dipping sauce of wood sorrel, cilantro, serrano, and sesame.
“Many plants, including wood sorrel, contain oxalic acid, which can be toxic in large quantities. Remember to enjoy in moderation.”
Wood sorrel looks like clover, but with yellow flowers on long stems. These are the somewhat fleshy flower stems you may have chewed on as a child walking around town (at least I did) to release their sour juices. The juice or ground leaves can be used as a unique way to provide a lemony kick to sauces or as a bright garnish - a little goes a very long way. Wood sorrel is high in Vitamin C and some use the plant medicinally for liver and digestive issues, but these latter benefits are not confirmed by research. The reason why wood sorrel is so lemony is due to its oxalic acid content, which can be toxic if eaten in large quantities and those with kidney or intestinal problems and pregnant women should avoid it. However, other plants contain oxalic acid as well so the general rule of thumb it to eat wood sorrel in moderation, meaning using some in sauce or as a part of a salad or garnish every once in a while is fine, and consume in combination with a balanced diet. There are also no dangerous look alikes for wood sorrel, making it a great foraged food for newbies! The below recipe serves 4.
2-4 fresh crabs (2 for half a crab each, 4 for heavy crab eaters)
1/2 cup wood sorrel leaves
2 serrano peppers, chopped with seeds removed
1 cup cilantro, chopped
Juice from 1/2 lemon
1 tablespoon ponzu (can substitute 1 teaspoon soy sauce + 2 teaspoons water if needed)
1 teaspoon yellow miso
1-2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
Cooking and cleaning the crab: Go here for more information and step-by-step photos.
Get a large pot of water to a rolling boil. There should be enough water to cover the crabs. Throw your crabs in and cook them for ~7-8 minutes per pound. That's 7-8 minutes for the average weight of the crabs, not total weight. So, if I have 2 crabs that weigh 1.5 pounds and 2 pounds respectively, I should cook them for about 12-14 minutes. Round down when possible, as you can always cook the crab more if needed, but crab cooking is pretty forgivable. The crabs will change from a purplish color to a bright orange-red.
Remove crabs and rinse under cool water until cool enough to handle.
“Protip: All crabs available to eat are male, as the female are thrown back in to encourage population growth. ”
Turn the crab upside down. Stick your finger underneath the "apron" (little tail looking thing) and pull it off. Remove the carapace (large back shell) by putting finger in hole where apron was and ripping the back shell from the legs. It's actually pretty easy and fun.
Rinse off or save the guts (yellow gushy stuff) found in the carapace. The guts can be eaten on rice, in a stew, or on their own if desired.
Remove the gills (spongy soft jagged things) from either side of the body as well as the mandible (sharp mouthparts in the front).
Give the body a final rinse - remove the greenish-brown and yellow goop - and break the body in half if desired. Serve at room temperature or cold with wood sorrel sauce (below).
To make the wood sorrel sauce: Simply blend all ingredients except sesame oil in a food processor or immersion blender. Drizzle in sesame oil until desired flavor and consistency is achieved.
Here's a quick video demonstrating how to clean a Dungeness Crab: