Chicken & greens Saltimbocca with Brandied Cherries & sage

Brandied cherries are a great complement to the savory chicken and prosciutto.

I have to admit that pounding boneless, skinless chicken breast into a thin sheet and rolling it up with other ingredients isn't something I would have come up with on my own. In fact, I pretty much never buy boneless, skinless chicken breast because it seems like a waste of flavor and texture, but this "transformed saltimbocca" (saltimbocca is traditionally made with veal and prosciutto, rather than chicken and prosciutto) is a great way to rethink chicken dinner and the ingredient combinations are endless. In this version, I used house brandied cherries (so fun to incorporate them into something savory!), spinach, and sage, but other possibilities that have come to mind include: Mashed butternut squash + black olive, gruyere + thyme, parsley + coriander + lemon zest, or even tatsoi + sesame + miso - as you can see, really endless possibilities! A little bit of sweet is nice in any combination, as it pairs nicely with the savory qualities of the chicken and prosciutto. Although the preparation may seem complicated, once you get the hang of it, it's really simple and the actually cooking time is very quick. Below recipe makes 2 generous portions or 4 smaller portions. 

• 2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 1 pound)

• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

• 4-8 thin slices of prosciutto (depending on size, see below)

• About 20 fresh sage leaves, divided

• 1.5 cups fresh spinach

• 1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for drizzling

• 3/4 cup chicken broth

• 1/4 cup dry white wine

• 3 tablespoons brandied cherry juice

• 4-8 brandied cherries (2 per serving)

Chicken cutlets layered with prosciutto, sage, and spinach before rolling up.

A meal of chicken brandied cherry saltimbocca, broccolini, and of course, wine.

1. Cut chicken breasts in half lengthwise to create 4 pieces and pound using a meat pounder or rolling pin to evenly flatten - pieces should be about 1/4-inch thick. If using a rolling pin, cover chicken with plastic wrap before rolling to prevent cross-contamination. 

2. Sprinkle chicken with salt and ground pepper and lay one slice of prosciutto on each piece of chicken (use more than one piece of prosciutto to cover chicken if needed) followed by 3 leaves of sage per chicken cutlet. Reserve remaining sage leaves.

3. Heat a skillet on medium-high heat and briefly toss spinach with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of water. Cook just to wilt, remove from heat, season with salt and pepper, and chop. Arrange spinach in an even layer over the prosciutto slices. 

4. Beginning at the tapered end, roll up each chicken cutlet like you’re rolling up a cinnamon roll. Secure with a toothpick.

5. Chop 4 of the remaining sage leaves. Heat the tablespoon of oil in a dutch oven or deep skillet on high heat. Cook the chopped sage and chicken rolls until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Add the chicken broth and wine and scrape browned bits off bottom of pan with a wooden spoon. Bring liquid to a boil then reduce heat to medium, cover, and simmer until chicken is cooked through, about 8-10 minutes.

6. Transfer chicken to a platter and remove toothpicks. Continue simmering cooking liquid with 3 tablespoon brandied cherry juice over high heat until it is reduced to about 1/3 cup, or 5-7 minutes then toss in brandied cherries. Drizzle the reduced cooking liquid over the chicken. Serve on top of polenta or other starch with sage leaves and brandied cherries as garnish.

Polenta pairs well with saltimbocca because its soft, simple nature.

Cherry and Wild Fennel Clafoutis

Sometimes, a word for a dish or a food preparation method I have never used will come to me and I will not rest until I have experienced it. That is what happened with "clafoutis" - I have no idea where I was introduced to the word, but after we picked up some cherries on our way back from a wedding in beautiful Los Olivos, all I could think about was making a cherry clafoutis, while at the same time asking myself, "cherry clafoutis is a thing, right?" This is where the internet came in, helpfully proving that cherry clafoutis is, indeed, a thing and although I don't necessary need a reason to make special desserts, my mother was serendipitously visiting for Mother's Day. Using a recipe from Saveur as a base, I decided to decrease the egg because some comments complained of eggy-ness and I tend to shy away from really eggy desserts and include wild fennel (more on wild fennel including foraging here), as cherry and fennel go together in a delightful way.

There are a few great things about this dessert. The first is that it's easy - really easy. It's also visually impressive in the cast-iron pan and versatile in ingredient options (apricot + almond? pear + bergamot?) and, because it's not super sweet, it's also versatile in potential eating occasion. We enjoyed it with fennel whipped cream as dessert and again the next day with coffee for brunch and I'm pretty sure no one would turn their nose up to a clafoutis at tea time. So, now you have no excuse - get out there, forage some fennel (which is all over the bay area), buy some cherries, and make this deliciously easy puffed crepe-like cake! Recipe below serves 8.

“Cherries can also be unpitted, which provides a more rustic flavor and texture, but I did not this time, as I knew my mom wouldn’t like it!”

• 1 cup chopped wild fennel fronds, plus a few fronds for garnish

• 1/2-1 cup whipping cream, depending on how much your group likes whipped cream (optional)

• 7-8 tablespoons sugar, divided

• 1 tablespoon plus 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract, divided

• 1/2 tablespoon butter

• 1-1/4 cups whole milk (can be substituted for a combination of 3 parts reduced fat and 1 part whipping cream, if you happen to have these around like I did)

• 2 tablespoons kirsch or Luxardo (I had Luxardo, but think it would be better with kirsch)

• 5 eggs

• 1/2 teaspoon medium coarse Kosher salt, divided

• 3/4 cup all-purpose flour

• 3 cups black or sour cherries, pitted (see post on how to pit cherries like a boss)

• Confectioner's sugar, for dusting

Infuse whipped cream with wild fennel by allowing whipping cream to impart fennel flavor overnight.

To make fennel whipped cream: Place 1/2 cup chopped fennel in a mason jar, pour whipped cream over top, cover, and refrigerate overnight. Remove fennel then beat cream until whipped, adding 1-2 tablespoons of sugar and 1/2 teaspoon of vanilla toward the end of beating. Refrigerate until used.

Heat oven to 425 degrees F. Grease a 9'' cast-iron skillet and set aside. Whisk milk, sugar, kirsch or Luxardo, vanilla, eggs, and 1/4 teaspoon salt until combined. Add flour and whisk until smooth, about 30 seconds.

Pour batter into buttered skillet, then distribute cherries evenly over top. Bake until a skewer inserted into batter comes out clean and a golden brown crust has formed on top and bottom of clafoutis, about 25 minutes. Dust with confectioners' sugar and serve with a dollop of fennel whipped cream, if desired.

Pit Cherries Like a Boss

Perfectly pitted without special equipment.

There you are, delicious and coveted cherry recipe in hand requiring pitted cherries (perhaps pitted brandied cherries, cherry fennel clafoutis, or cherry jam) and you without a cherry pitter. Worry not! If you have a large star pastry tip (I have Ateco 824) then you have a cherry pitter. The bonus is that you don't have to buy a special tool that you'll only use 1-2x per year and, no joke, this actually works better.

• Step 1: Twist pastry tip into cherry around pit.

• Step 2: Remove pastry tip along with pit.

• Step 3: Discard pit and repeat with a new cherry.

House Brandied Cherries

Brandied Cherries - If life is a bowl of cherries, I hope I have the opportunity to brandy some of mine. Every year around June or July, I can't help but make a jar or two of these preserved morsels. Although fresh cherries are hard to pass up, it's worth it a few months later when you have a rich taste of summer for your cocktails. 

Once brandied, the cherries are good for 6 months in the refrigerator, but don't expect them to last that long. After all, there’s always a manhattan to make for someone or ice cream that needs a unique and boozy topping. Below recipe makes about 2 pint jars.

• About 1lb fresh cherries, washed, stems removed (you can also remove pits, but I find they have better texture/flavor with pits intact) 

• 1/2 cup water

• 1/2 cup sugar

• 2 tsp fresh lemon juice

• 1/2 vanilla bean pod

• 1 to 1-1/2 cups brandy

• Peppercorn or other spices (optional)

Heat water, sugar, lemon juice and vanilla bean (scrapings and pod) until simmering. Add cherries and simmer 3 minutes.

Remove from heat, add 1 cup brandy and allow to cool for 5 minutes.

Transfer to clean jars, top with remaining brandy to cover cherries (if needed), and place in refrigerator uncovered until completely cool. Once cool, top with jar lids. Cherries may be eaten after 24 hours and will keep about 4-6 months refrigerated.