Asparagus-Wild Onion-Umami

One of my favorite spoils of spring are the wild onions. In the Bay Area, the Allium triquetrum or "three-cornered leek" is the wild onion that abounds and it also happens to be as lovely in flavor as it is in appearance. This wild onion is nicknamed "three-cornered" because of the shape of its stems and has the characteristic allium smell and taste with a delicate sweet note, especially when using its small, white, star-shaped flowers. 

There are many ways to enjoy these "three-cornered leeks", but pairing them with asparagus deliciously highlights the season. In California, not many foods are truly seasonal so when they are I like to indulge. Browning the asparagus and chopped onion stems in butter with umeboshi brings in umami elements then topping with the sweet wild flowers and crunchy bits of sesame really knocks it out of the park. We made umeboshi last year with local wild plums, but store bought umeboshi or even miso can be used as a substitute if you do not have access to umeboshi - either ingredient will contribute the umami flavor that you're looking for. Recipe is adaptable to the amount of asparagus you have preference for strength of flavors. The below recipe will serve 2-4 people (in our house, definitely only 2!)

• 1 pound of asparagus (about 16 spears), tough fibrous stems removed

• 7 wild onion, aka three-cornered leek, stalks with flowers (there will be several flowers on each stalk)

• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

• 3 umeboshi, finely chopped, or 1 tablespoon red or brown miso

• 1 tablespoon sesame seeds

1. For larger asparagus spears: Using a vegetable peeler, peel bottom of spear about 1-inch up from bottom and slice larger asparagus spears in half lengthwise. If you have thin asparagus spears, both of these steps can be skipped.

2. Remove wild onion flowers and dice stalks. Set aside.

3. In a cast iron pan, sauté butter over medium-high heat. Add asparagus, toss to coat, and cook until beginning to soften, about 1 minute. Add umeboshi (or miso in small pieces) and diced wild onion stalks, toss to coat, and cook until asparagus browns, about 3-5 minutes, tossing halfway through. Test an asparagus spear to see if it is flavored to your liking - if not, add more butter/umeboshi or miso/onion.

4. Remove from heat and top with sesame seeds and wild onion flowers. Serve hot.

Wild onion basking in the sun.

Spring Frittata with Asparagus, Leeks, and Chèvre

Celebrate spring by including asparagus and the bright flavors of goat cheese and tarragon in this elegant and satisfying meal. Frittata is a very easy way to whip up a stylish breakfast that’s also very durable and adaptable to a variety of dietary needs (well, apart from vegan that is, as eggs are necessary). This will solve your weekend brunch needs - don't worry, next weekend is just around the corner! Serves 6.

• 10 eggs

• 2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

• 1/4 teaspoon coarse ground black pepper

• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 medium leek, trimmed and thinly sliced (use whites and greens)

• 16 asparagus spears, ends trimmed and chopped into 1.5-inch pieces

• 4-6 ounces chèvre (fresh goat cheese), crumbled

Preheat the broiler to high. Whisk eggs with thyme, salt, and pepper. Set aside.

Heat butter and oil in a large oven-proof pan over medium-high heat. Add leeks and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 3 minutes. Mix in asparagus and continue to cook another 2-3 minutes until asparagus is slightly softened but still bright green.

Pour egg mixture over asparagus, stir once just to ensure even distribution of ingredients, and cook about 2 minutes, until almost set. Sprinkle with crumbled chèvre and broil frittata in the pan until golden brown, about 3-5 minutes (check and rotate if one side is cooking faster). Remove from oven and serve from pan or slide frittata onto a plate.